Pest Control

xterm.com
thailandpestcontrol.com/pest-control-thailand/kanchanaburi-pest-control.html
rentokil.co.th/en/pest-control-thonburi/

Switch to the Sentricon system for eliminating/preventing termites. Much more effective than insecticide. (Insecticide only kills termites it comes in contact with. Sentricon makes any colony sterile so it dies out completely.) Plus no dangerous insecticides.
Was at Global House going to by another 3180 Baht container of Chaindrite to try to stop these damn termites when a rather well informed (rather unusual) member of staff cam up and asked why I was buying it.

When I told him the problems we were having with the termites he pointed out this product by Beger / Bayer. He was being helpful as he could have let me buy the 3180 Baht Chaindrite, but he said this stuff was better and it was 1600 Baht.

Apparently you mix the 250mL. of chemical into 100 Litres of water then treat the soil / house. He said the termites eat it or spread it and it then gets back to the nest and kills them all, hopefully with a really slow painful terrible death.

Take a look at the pictures and the product sheet, let me know if you have used it with or without success.

http://www.beger.co.th/ecatalog/show2/229

treating the soil outside the perimeter of the house is key….the colony and the queen live underground…soil drench after digging a narrow 2 cm deep trench all around

They don’t stay inside…they feed and use tubes made of mud/soil to travel between their nests underground and your house. If you can find the tubes stuck to the wall you can find their paths to their underground lair.

They don’t stay inside…they feed and use tubes made of mud/soil to travel between their nests underground and your house. If you can find the tubes stuck to the wall you can find their paths to their underground lair.

Thing is though, if they move up these tubes into the house and then you get millions of them up in your roof or wherever, then you cut off their supply tubes…..what happens next? This is what seems to be happening for me.

They are stuck up in the roof cavity and it is a big dark space it is over 160 square metres foot print with a 4 metre rise at the centre.

There is probably nowhere for them to go so they just start eating anything. (just guessing by the way – as they are not eating the wood only ruining the gypsum in certain areas.

I contacted Rentokil and for them to do a walk around spray of the perimeter of the house and a 1 off spray of the inside – plus two follow up walk and sprays (takes less than 20 minutes) They wanted 23,000 Baht!!!

I bought a new Honda GX200 and a new high pressure spray pump along with spray lance and 100 metres of tubing + 6360 Bahts worth of Chaindrite (10 litres) for less than 18K – I now have it for as long as it lasts, it has multiple uses, spraying weedkiller, spraying trees etc. maybe even pressure washing.

This idea of treating the perimeter with a trench????? I am imagining a moat or something similar to barbed wire or even a wall to keep wartime soldiers out……so instead they parachuted in beyond enemy lines!!

why do you think that will work??

It will work for ants and thats all.

Termites fly, yes they fly so no matter what you do to treat the perimeter, the grass, the roof, every time its about to rain heavy you will get millions of the termites flying into your property….attracted by every light source.

These flying termites are the kings and queens. these are the big termites that fly to mate. Their wings can only carry them for a few minutes before they have to take refuge where they land…..your decking, your fence, your roof your nice lawn….infact everywhere that you have not treated.

These queens now need to make a new colony inside your protected boundary perimeter and they will no problem, sometimes soil sometimes wood.

My take on it is that you have to remove the food source or treat the food source. That food source is wood, softwood, dead tree roots, discarded paper cardboard.

So if you have a wooden house, windows,fence then you should spend your money staining it. The stain will kill any insect that tries to nibble. Thats a more effective way to spend your money.

From my experience and I live in a wooden house. it has been stained over 5 years ago to my knowledge, a lot of hardwood in it also but its never had a problem with termites at all.

I have a cheap wooden table and 4 chairs and they are all stained and have been outside on my timber decking for 4 years. never even touched by insects.

My perimeter fence, shera boards on softwood timber rails, about 75m long.

We paid the termite sprayer about 500bt every month for two years just to do the fence. In 4 years its literally fallen down together with the lighting cables so its a masonry wall now.

Money wasted really on the sprayers because they simply kill what is there at that moment and its hardly thorough is it?

if you protect their food source you will not see many termites around, they are probably enjoying your neighbours house instead.

One pest control service we used here put some traps into the ground – wood baited with something that apparently rotted away the termites ‘teeth’ after they’d chewed on it, so they won’t be able to eat anymore and they all die off. Never discovered if this was true or not (we moved out of the house) but I liked the idea !

You have Imidacloprid a systemic insecticide. I use fipronil which can be bought for 100bt from farm/chemical shops and does the same thing. Here is an interesting safety sheet you should read,
http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/imidagen.html

I’ve been treating my home via built-in foundation pipes with Bayer Premise SC 200 which is an identical product to the Beger product the OP posted. Been doing it around every 3 years for about 9 years now here in Bangkok. Buy it has Global or HomePro for approx Bt1600 for 250ml bottle. Mix with with 100L of water. I inject the 100L of treated water into the built-in foundation pipes specifically to treat for terminates under the foundation. Have never had a termite….while my neighbors have terminates all the time and they pay folks to come out and treat for termites.

The SC 200 stuff is Imidacloprid based and based on my research a few years ago is better/longer lasting that Fipronil based products which the termite treatment that is used by the companies who come and treat my neighbors’s homes.

Was in a HomePro in Bangkok yesterday and saw they sold both the BegerDrite SC200 and the Bayer SC200, just a slightly different price. Both use the exact same termiticide and same amount….see below. The BegerDrite is a little higher in cost maybe due to the included gloves and/or paying a fee to Bayer to sell the SC200 formulation….don’t know. Physically, the bottles were exactly alike….just the company name and labels were different.

Gravity.

The professionals that do such treatment will mix a 250ml bottle of termiticide into a 100L barrel and then use a small, portable water pump to pump the 100L into the pipes.

For me I have an old 20L drinking water bottle and mix-in 50ml of termiticide. A 250ml bottle allows me to do the mix 5 times. I then just use a short hose with one end that goes into the pipe, the other end has a funnel which I hang on a short stepladder, and I empty the 20L bottle into the funnel/hose setup….the treatment flows into the pipes.

While pressure injection from a small water pump putting out around 3 bars/40psi would probably be better, this setup has worked for me. There have been times I almost bought a small water pump for around Bt1500 to do the injection/suck from the 20L bottle, but I would only use the pump every 3 years or so. Just didn’t seem worth it to me.

A lot of people thing injection to built-in treatments pipes should happen under pressure and has to spray out the perforated pipes into the ground. But even under pressure the spray probably wouldn’t go out a quarter of inch. The goal is for the treatment to “soak” into the soil and that soil right around the treatment pipes because a death feeding ground for termites.

Premise SC200 is a non-repellant termiticide. All they have to do is to enter that treated area every so briefly, they are poisoned, but not immediately, and when they continue their moving around under the foundation and interacting with other termites, like at the termites nest(s), they are spreading the poison like a plague. After a while all the termites are killed off as the termiticide remains active for years in the soil.

It has worked for me over 9 years here at my Bangkok home…I treat every 3 years or so. The tremiticide is suppose to last around 5 to 7 years in the soil based on my research a couple of years ago, but I treatevery 3 years or so to play it safe since it stays so wet in Thailand due to he tropical environment. I figure the tropical rains reduce the effectiveness faster than in non-tropical environment. Anyway, the Bayer SC200 and my injection method (gravity) has worked for me.

For me I have an old 20L drinking water bottle and mix-in 50ml of termiticide. A 250ml bottle allows me to do the mix 5 times. I then just use a short hose with one end that goes into the pipe, the other end has a funnel which I hang on a short stepladder, and I empty the 20L bottle into the funnel/hose setup….the treatment flows into the pipes.
Our house is in Rayong Province, with termite activity in the adjoining vacant blocks.

Up until now, I’ve been spraying Chaindrite monthly around the boundaries and house perimeters ie. I don’t have the ‘pipes’ to use this method. On two separate occasions over the past 8 years, the little b*ggers made initial forays into the garden area before being drowned in Chaindrite.

Would it be feasible for me to similarly apply a single dose of SC200 by spray – or does the treatment really need to be applied some distance below ground to be effective??? (if likely effective, I was thinking about maybe treatment with SC200 every 2-3 years, and continuing with Chaindrite (say) every 3/6 months).

Would it be feasible for me to similarly apply a single dose of SC200 by spray – or does the treatment really need to be applied some distance below ground to be effective??? (if likely effective, I was thinking about maybe treatment with SC200 every 2-3 years, and continuing with Chaindrite (say) every 3/6 months).
You will need to dig a trench 6-12 inches deep around your property. Lots of stuff on YouTube.

A Friend has a small mango orchard ( about two rai ) . All the trees over this large area are being attacked by termites with several dead already. How does one kill such a large infestation? Poison has been sprayed around the base of the trees but to little effect. The orchard was heavily pruned a year or so ago which combined with the drought may have weakened them as well. Any Ideas please.

Helping Your Plants With A Neem Oil Foliar Spray


Not too sure where you can buy large quantities of neem oil here though. The trees grow here, there must be oil for sale somewhere

Fipronil can be applied directly into the soil around trees and is the best termite treatment available.

It is injected (with long probes) into the soil. And yes, not just sprayed ON the soil.

I recall there’s some very old method used for the placement of your termite oil…
… a pit filled with toilet rolls, which concentrates your attack, and easy to replace and replenish the oil/termite soggen rolls…
but I can’t find which old popular mechanics issue it was in. From the 60s

Termites very rarely, if ever, attack and kill living trees although they will eat the bark/cellulose from diseased trees but this in itself shouldn’t kill the tree, I would therefore look for another cause of the problem. I have over 35 trees in my garden and two of them have seen bark infestation with termites but they are trees that are very old, the trees continue to thrive however despite this. It may be that your mango trees have been seriously weakened because of the protracted drought and were simply unable to recover afterwards, either that or another disease/infestation is at work. Termites love damp condition but because unlike ants, they can’t swim, they are easily killed by flooding any nests. It’s not difficult to find the nests, especially if you have a lawn mower, termites become hyper active when there’s a source of vibration/noise nearby and once a nest is identified, common household bug spray sprayed onto the nest will kill them easily. Another approach is to lay a piece of dead/rotting wood on the ground and wait for a couple of weeks to see what it attracts, termites will often move their nest to colonise a new food source. It therefore follows that all sources of dead wood should be eliminated if you want to attempt eradication, something that is almost impossible to do in my experience.

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