in Thailand
Thailand is home to over 1,100 species of butterflies. They can be seen anywhere: in the National Parks, in the city gardens, in beach-side resorts and all over the countryside. … the best butterfly watching National Parks are Khao Yai and Khaeng Krachan
There is only one rule when browsing the food stalls at a village market, if it looks good, it probably is good and you want to try it. If you don’t the chances are it will be the one thing you will never find again.
Kluay Tod or crispy deep fried plantain bananas are an all time favourite. But you need to catch them straight out of the pan otherwise go limp and rubbery.
Hoi Tod is a Thai oyster or shellfish omelette which is a cross between an omelette and a crispy pancake. The stallholder will more often than not also serve Pad Thai.
Kanom krok is a deliciously sweet thai dessert that is a popular street food. It often consists of two layers – the base is made from a rice flour and coconut milk mix, and the topping is a sweet mix of coconut milk and sugar, plus a variety of toppings. It is cooked over a charcoal fire in a kanom krok pan. They are small half sphere shaped puddings that are golden brown and crispy on the outside, and soft and sweet on the inside.
Nam Isan or fermented pork from the North East of Thailand is one of the most delicious foods that have come out of Isan. I don’t know if I have got this right but my understanding is that it is the rectangular shaped patty on the left, usually on a stick which is fire grilled and served with birds eye chilli’s shredded cabbage and sliced ginger. The sausage on the right of the picture comes in various shapes and sizes and it is a mix including rice and it is known as Sai Krok Isan or Sai Krok Priao. There is another variation of the sausage which uses glass noodle in place of the rice which I don’t really like.
Not one of the easiest thing I have ever done. In fact applying for a family visa for the UK has to be one of the most stressful thing I have ever attempted.
In part due to the hefty price tag that comes with it.
It is costing us two thousand pounds each for my wife and two boys plus a further two thousand each for the Immigration Health Surcharge.
Question – Where can I stay for relaxation & wildlife?
I’ll have a spare week in Thailand at the end of August. I’ll be there to volunteer at the elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai.
I’m very much into ethical wildlife so would love to unwind somewhere safe and relaxing that has access to free roaming wildlife such as monkeys & turtles.
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Good luck on turtles… 500+dives in Thailand and never seen 1….You need to go to Indonesia for turtles….
Many Thai resorts tours etc will claim green credentials – you need to be EXTREMELY skeptical. For instance many offer tours in areas where the public is not permitted and the environment is not prepared for human encroachment. (Koh Chang is one example)
So……..here’s my checklist.
A few things to think about when interacting or encountering animals in Thailand
How can you tell? – What can you tell in a day? “The average tourist doesn’t have the capacity to identify cruelty to animals because sometimes that cruelty is not overt.” Born Free Foundation
It’s almost impossible but try to keep in mind some of these items…..
The Law – Thailand has virtually no animal cruelty laws. – Prevention of Animal Cruelty Act – Dec 2014 – is Thailand’s FIRST EVER legislation!! -up to 1 month and/or fined up to 1,000 Baht – it is not clear whether this is extends to wild animals or only to protect domestic animals,. Omitted are such acts as “discarding animals or keeping them too narrowly confined, animals fighting for sport, the eating of live animals, as well as prohibiting the trade of dogs and cats for consumption.”
Zoos and Captive Animals – in the west, zoos are now largely scientific establishments that research wildlife and conservation – exhibiting the animals is of secondary importance.
Zoos in Thailand are not scientific institutions they are more like circuses. Keeping of protected wildlife is technically illegal. Permission is needed to start a zoo but guidelines are unclear and inspections were not required until recently. All this falls well short of international standards
Enforcement and Corruption – How much do the authorities do? – Granting of licences seems casual to say the least; some granted seem to fly in the face of common sense. When it comes to taking action against any animal establishment the authorities have been notably reticent.
Many people assume that if a place was operating outside reasonably acceptable standards, it would have been brought to task or closed. This is NOT the case in Thailand.
It is often difficult for visitors to Thailand to understand the depth breadth and all permeating influence of graft, nepotism and corruption in Thailand.
Are they GREEN?
Beware of claims of “conservation” – they are usually false. E.g. most large mammals cannot under any circumstances be released into the wild – tigers are incapable of survival without training from their mothers and would have no fear of humans. – Elephants can be released into large reserves, but unfenced would encroach on human habitation. “There is no alternative, animals must earn their keep” – This is a false perception. Many of these animals are illegally bred for profit in the first place. Owners have even under Thai law, a duty of correct care. There is also still a lot of habitat in Thailand that is suitable for conservation of both wild and captive animals. A survey in about 2007 showed potential for up to 2000 tigers – the current population in and around Thailand is between 100 and 300.
Conservation is not about keeping enough examples for us to look at. It is all about protecting the environment and preserving fully functioning eco-systems in the wild – the idea that examples in a zoo mean everything is OK is wildly out of touch with the real situation.
Keystone species: are animals that form a major part in the working of a bio-system. Tigers are apex predators; take them out of a forest and deer proliferate, trees get eaten and the system is damaged, it may even collapse. Elephants are the “tractors” of a system – They roam and eat vegetation which ensures distribution of seeds growth of plants, they give access for smaller animals to water and food; CAGED, animals take no part in this.
Cages – most cages in Thailand fail to meet minimum internationally accepted requirements. Size and time locked up are important. (Tigers need space in the wild – males up to 60 to 100 km2, females up to 20 km2). Bare cages are boring – animals need stimulation. They need something to do and some cover. (e.g. – Tigers are solitary and territorial by nature and seeing other tigers or any animals nearby can cause considerable stress)
Repetitive behaviour/lethargy. Caged animals often display clearly identifiable signs of psychological damage, resulting in unnatural behaviour patterns – these animals are stressed. Big Cats pace cages because they are bored out of their minds LITERALLY!
Tricks and Shows – If an establishment is making animals do tricks, such as paint, Orang-utans boxing – tigers jumping through hoops or behaviour that isn’t natural – then it is reasonable to assume that the are animals are being exploited. Training can be harsh and cruel
Babies – Be very suspicious of places with lots of young of any kind – Breeding of animals is a scientifically complex activity that takes into account many conservation issues. – Even if the animals themselves breed readily – it can result in inbreeding, hybrids and unwanted animals, and damage to gene pools. Unscrupulous operators usually do this to bring in customers to pet the babies. Breeding in captivity and a captive breeding program are not the same thing.
Speed-breeding is a set of techniques used by such places as tiger farms to keep female tigers producing litter after litter. It means there are always a few babies around to attract the public. Stillborns and runts are common in Tiger litters and can be used for bottling for TCM.
Mixed species exhibits – e.g. Pigs suckling tiger cubs – is a technique for speed breeding – taking the cubs from their mothers early on triggers a hormonal response and the female tiger can become pregnant again.
Animals don’t wear clothes.
Street Animals – Don’t pet, pose with or pay vendors carrying street animals – these creatures are subjected to horrendous abuse (drugging etc., in the case of reptiles having their mouths sewn shut), when their usefulness expires or they become too unmanageable they are killed.
Drugging – Anything from an iguana to an elephant – in Thailand they are habitually drugged to make them easier to handle – however with any kind of prolonged drug abuse there are side effects – this can often be unpredictable and violent behaviour. Animals have comedowns too.
Dogs – Don’t feed Soi dogs. Thailand has a serious stray dog problem – it is sustained by access to food- often garbage and donations by misguided but well-meaning people. If food runs low dogs stop breeding and the numbers of diseased and wretched animals roaming the streets reduces. If you must get involved with a street dog – get it neutered or spayed
Dogs as food – many dogs are caught and shipped abroad for human consumption. BUT – Dogs are also eaten in Thailand. They are often tortured to death, as it is believed that it tenderises the meat. Many have their legs broken and tied hind there backs to make transport easier. Consumption of dog meat is LEGAL in Thailand.
Looking after animals – Giving an animal your affection for 10 minutes – or even a day or a week doesn’t necessarily improve it’s life overall – your money is going to support or continue the abuse or suffering
Elephants don’t live in Towns and can’t carry heavy loads. – Elephants’ backs aren’t capable of carrying heavy weights. They are the wrong shape (In logging they were used for PULLING). If they offer elephant rides they are most likely exploiting their animals.
Mahouts are frequently frauds – a mahout traditionally lived with one elephant for his entire career. The “handlers” around parks and towns are usually inexperienced and RENT the elephant of its owner in order to make a bit of cash.
Beware of websites/forums promoting wildlife attractions. Are not always as unbiased as you might think – they receive advertising revenue of tour companies who profit from animal attractions. Advice is from people who either don’t understand the issues or refuse to accept they have participated in animal exploitation themselves
CITES – “Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora” – is an international treaty to protect endangered plants and animals. Thailand is a signatory and has been under pressure over the last few years to clean up their act and start shutting down the trade in a multitude of endangered flora and fauna. If you see animal products on sale such as ivory, amulets or skins, report it –
I must say I’m not finding it at all easy to avoid the awful sights when searching for a place to stay.
It’s so bad I think I may avoid it completely and spend my extra week elsewhere. Sumatra was suggested on another thread as incredible for ethical wildlife, I might try there instead.
I think I’d be too upset by the fate of orang-utans.
The reality is that S.E. asia in general is a ghastly place for all forms of flora and fauna at present. That’s not to say there aren’t people who care and organisations trying to educate and conserve. But it makes me sick to my stomach when resorts and hotels make totally baseless claims of being “green” and “living with nature” (or “natural” as they mistakenly say it)
So no to Sumatra too?
Where would you suggest?
I haven’t said no to anywhere. I just think that people need to be aware of welfare and conservation issues and try to find places that have genuine welfare and conservation at heart. I understand you have been volunteering – Maybe some people there have particular places they recommend. Failing that you can always Google a bit before visiting.
Is there anywhere you can recommend that you feel is truly ethical?
After doing very limited research in Sumatra I’ve now ruled that out too due to the many accounts of sexual harassment towards women.
I have emailed the Elephant Park to ask for a good place to travel onto next and await their response.
Ok – firstly check out the people at Elephant park. (how long are you volunteering for?). Then look at National parks.etc
Your problem is that August is wet season pretty much everywhere. Some parks will be closed or running on half mast. I’d probably try to go somewhere with a minimal foreigner population and a bit of scenery. I love the North of Thailand and Laos, but the more Southern Provinces have some nice coastline left.
You aren’t going to see hoards of wildlife roaming past your door anywhere …..except for monkeys and when they do that it is a terrible nuisance. Parks like Khao Yai and Kaeng Krachan and Khao sok have plenty of accommodation on hand ….I particularly like the boat trips on the Khao Sok lake which has a limestone karst topography.
Your budget is a bit tight so why not just backpack around for a bit, get to meet Thai people and a few tourists to get a feel for the country as a whole….or just head for Phang Nga and see what turns up. I doubt if you’ll need to book at that time of year.
I drive around Thailand extensively, I never book, I just see where I end up at the end of the day….it’s usually great..occasionally a let down, but it’s all part of the experience
Every year stalls pop up on the 3086 from Kanchanaburi selling termite mushrooms which the local villagers collect from the mountain forests.
The het khone termite mushroom is regarded by Thais as the king of them all. And at the height of the mushroom madness cars from Bangkok and even further afield can be seen queuing up to buy this expensive and much sought after delicacy.
They appear when the weather starts to change at the end of the rains. After the termites have swarmed from their nests to establish new colonies. Giving the mushroom spores in the organic matter the ants have gathered, the chance to germinate and sprout.
In the central region het khone are found in the Phetchaburi, Kanchanaburi provinces as well as the mountainous part of Suphan Buri. But the sweetest, tastiest mushroom are to be found in Nong Prue in Kanchanaburi.
This small farming town has a well established reputation as the mushroom capital of Thailand. And the stalls pop up every year at the intersection with the road into the town, transforming it into a bustling market as the customers arrive in search of the freshest and the best mushrooms on offer.
These are special days for the local people who wait patently for the first mushrooms to appear. And just before the rains cease completely there will be extreme hot and oppressive weather which they refer to rawn het or “mushroom heat”.
There is another variety of het khone grows in Isan. They are called het pluak by the locals and can be found at the beginning of the rainy season, from late May through early June. And the villagers gather them for eating rather than to sell. But when the price goes up they find their way to the markets in Bangkok.
In international terms Thailand is a relative late-comer as a coffee producer.
Although coffee has been gown for a little over a century, the country only started exporting Robusta beans in 1976. Growing to become one of the top twenty five coffee producers in the world. Unique in that it exports very little of the coffee that is grown.
Most of the consumption remains in the country, having developed a booming specialty coffee ecosystem where farmers, roasters, cafes and consumers symbiotically co-exist. An example of a working coffee ecosystem where coffee is produced sustainably from both economic and environmental perspectives. A rare achievement in the coffee world. But one that is typically and uniquely Thai.
Got myself a continuous cough and according to the NHS i am now required to self isolate. Better safe than sorry i guess. Now I have to do a covid test that I am very much not looking forward to. Uncomfortable but if everyone understands maybe we can mitigate the worst that is still to come.